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NO. 1 



SOUP AND SOUP MAKING 



BY 






MRS. EMMA P. EWING, 

Author of "Cooking and Castle Building," and Superintendent 
of the Chicago Training School of Cookery. 



CHICAGO AND NEW YORK! 

FAIRBANKS, PALMER & CO. 

1882. 



I2ST ZP.R-IEIP.A.IEa.A.TIOlSr 

BY 

MRS. EMMA P. EWING. 



Bread and Bread Making. 

Salad and Salad Making. 

Devil Dainties and Little Dishes, 



CCooIwjj ffianmrtg. 



IsTO. 1. 



SOUP AND SOUP MAKING. 



BY 



I C l> ^ MRS. EMMA P. EWING, 



Author of "Cooking and Castle Building" and Superintendent 
qf the Chicago Training School of Cookery. 



i 



NOV 8-188 

mJM.0..c , 



CHICAGO Atffc NEW YORK: 

FAIRBANKS, PALMER & CO* 
1882. 






COPYRIGHT BY 

Fairbanks, Palmer & Co, 
1882. 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Amber Soup 20 

Asparagus Soup 25 

Beef Tea . .1-3 

Chicken Soup 19 

Celery Soup . • 20 

Corn Soup 25 

Croutons 34 

Caramel 33 

Dumplings . .85 

Force Meat Balls 36 

Julienne Soup . . 21 

Mulligatawny Soup . . . . f . . . 19 

Mock Turtle . . .27 

Noodles 35 

Oyster Stew • . 30 

Oyster Soup . . • 30 

Onion Soup . • 23 

Pea Soup 23 

Soup Stock . . • 10 

Stock Pot 9 

Save-All Soup 28 

Tomato Soup . . . • . . . . 21 

Vegetable Sorp 22 

White Soup . • . . . . . . 24 

(5) 



SOUP AND SOUP MAKING. 



PEETJMEN AEY EEMAEKS. 



Soup is so convenient, economical and health- 
ful, that as an article of diet it ranks second in im- 
portance only to bread; and soup making is justly 
entitled to a prominent place in the science of 
cookery. 

A simple soup or broth of good quality, delicate- 
ly seasoned with salt and pepper, or containing 
some of the grains, or grain products, is always ac- 
ceptable, *and none of the more complex soups that 
can be readily secured by a judicious introduction 
of vegetables, herbs and spices ever meet with pop- 
ular disfavor. 

There are enough scraps of cooked and uncooked 
meats, trimmings of roasts, steaks, chops, cutlets 
and so on in nearly every house to keep the family 

(7) 



8 COOKERY MANUAL. 

supplied with nutritious, palatable soup, with very 
little trouble and at only a slight expense for ad- 
ditional material. And as the best dinner can 
generally be preceded with advantage by a light 
soup of some kind, to an ordinary, cold, or "picked- 
up " family dinner, a plate of soup is an invaluable 
adjunct, and can be prepared in a few minutes in 
a kitchen where the value of the stock pot is recog- 
nized, and the economy of good cooking under- 
stood. 

Soup scientifically prepared is easier of digestion 
than almost any other article of diet. The solid 
matter which enters into its composition and 
would in the original form require several hours 
for digestion, is so broken down in the process of 
preparation that it can be readily assimilated with 
very little expenditure of vital force; and being 
absorbed by the stomach as soon as eaten, goes im- 
mediately to nourish the system. 

But soup to fulfill its true mission must be at- 
tractive in appearance, agreeable in flavor and un- 
mistakable in character. It must not be a weak, 
sloppy, characterless compound, nor a crude, 
greasy, inharmonious hodge-podge. The defects 
ot unsavory, unpalatable, indigestible soups may 



SOUPS. 



be concealed, but can not be removed by the ex- 
cessive use of salt, pepper and other spices and con- 
diments. And in order that soup of any kind may 
legitimately aspire to high rank, either as a nutri- 
tive or hygienic agent, it must be skillfully pre- 
pared, so as to please the eye and gratify the 
palate. 



HOW TO MAKE SOUP STOCK. 



A STOCK POT. 

Any ordinary pot or kettle can ba used for pre- 
paring stock, but as a " digester " or stock pot is 
one of the most useful utensils known to the culi- 
nary art, and can be obtained at almost any hard- 
ware store, no kitchen should be without one. 
The cook, who is provided with a stock pot, and 
habitually uses it two or three times a week, can 
utilize all available scraps, and generally has a 
supply of stock on hand from which an acceptable 
soup, or delicious sauce can be improvised in a 
short time, and with very little trouble. 



10 COOKERY MANUAL. 

The stock pot should not remain on the stove or 
range, and fresh material be added from time to 
time to that which is partly or wholly cooked; but 
whenever a quantity of scraps accumulate they 
should be carefully prepared and put to cook. 

SOUP STOCK. 

A great many soups are made without the pre- 
vious preparation of a specially distinctive stock. 
But stock has as legitimate an existence in soup 
making, as ferment has in bread mtiking; and its 
recognition is quite essential to a perfect under- 
standing of the subject. Stock is the base of soups. 
It is the fluid foundation with which other materials 
are mixed, and skillfully incorporated into soups, 
that in modern bills of fare are bewilderingly des- 
ignated potages, purees, and consommes. 

Soup stock, in the strictest sense of the term, is 
the fluid extract of meat or meat and bones, and is 
of two kinds: — simple and compound. 

Simple stock is the extract from a single kind of 
flesh, fish or fowl. Compound stock is the extract 
from two or more kinds of flesh, fish or fowl min- 
gled and cooked together, or mixed together, after 
being cooked separately. 



60UPS. 11 

HOW TO MAKE SOUP STOCK. 

To make stock, meats of any kind cut in small 
pieces, or meat and bones well cut and broken, 
should be put in a pot in cold water slightly salted, 
and the water heated very gradually until it 
reaches the boiling point, after which it should be 
kept simmering gently for a longer or shorter time, 
according to the nature and quantity of the mate- 
rialised, and the consistency of the stock wanted. 
When sufficiently cooked, it should be removed 
from the fire, strained into a jar or bowl, and set 
in a cool place. 

QUANTITY OF WATER. 

Authorities differ somewhat in regard to the 
quantity of water that should be used in preparing 
stock and making soup. 

If the simmering is to continue six or eight 
hours, as some recommend, a little more water is 
required than when it is to continue only half that 
length of time. But as the correct proportions are 
about one quart of water to each pound of meat 
and bones, it is absurd to use an additional quantity 
of water, and waste time and material in reducing 
the sWck to the proper consistency by evaporation. 



12 COOKERY MANUAL. 

QUANTITY OF SALT. 

The principal object of using salted water in the 
preparation of stock, is to facilitate the separation 
of the blood and slime from the meat. The quan- 
tity of salt used should be regulated by the condi- 
tion of the meat, and in no case more than an 
ounce of salt to each gallon of water. 

REMOVING THE SCUM. 

The blood and slime when thrown to the surface 

in the f >rm of scum, should be removed as rapid- 
ly as it rises. If permitted to remain after the 
water reaches the boiling point, it will be speedily 
incorpora ei with the stock, and injure its appear- 
ance and flavor. A little cold water poured into 
the pot the moment it boils, will hasten the rising 
of the sc ira. 

SOAKING- AND SIMMERING THE MEAT. 

The albumen of all meats, like the albumen or 
white of eggs, is curdled and hardened by heat, 
but is readily soluble in cold water, and mixes 
quietly with it; and when meat is put to cook in 
cold water, and soaked until the water reaches the 
boiling point, and afterward permitted to only siin- 



soups. 13 

mer, all its juices are extracted, and mingled with 
the liquid so perfectly as to greatly improve the 
flavor, arid add to the nutritive properties of the 
stock or soup. 

QUALITY OF THE MEAT. 

The flavor of soup depends upon the quality of 
the materials of which it is made. Tough and 
coarse pieces of meat, when the meat is of good 
quality, make good soups and sauces, and can be 
converted into stock advantageously, as can also a 
great many rough, refuse bits and scraps; but it is 
very important that all meats of which stock is to 
be made, should be cooked before they get tainted, 
or stale; in fact, the fresher the meat, the better 
will be the quality of the stock made from it. 

BEEF TEA. 

Especial care should be observed in regard to the 
freshness of the meat for beef tea, which comes 
under the generic name of soup, being merely a 
plain soup stock. A cut from the round, on ac- 
count of its juiciness, is preferable, for beef tea. In 
preparing it, all skin and fat should be removed, 
and the beef cut into small pieces. It should then 
be covered with cold water, and a. lowed to soak for 



14: COOKERY MANUAL. 

several hours, when the water should be brought 
slowly to the boiling point. This tea is not so nu- 
tritious as stock simmered for two or three hours, 
but is believed by physicians to exercise a special 
tonic and exhilerating influence upon the system 
independent of any directly nutritive quality it may 
possess. 

CONSISTENCY OF STOCK. 

The consistency of stock depends greatly upon 
the material used, and the length of time it is 
cooked. Bones contain a large quantity of gelatin- 
ous matter, and when equal portions of meat and 
bones are used, the stock, when cold, will be quite 
stiff and gelatinous; and the longer it is allowed to 
simmer, the more stiff arid gelatinous it will be- 
come. If meat alone is used, or if the stock is 
cooked but a short time, it will remain in liquid 
form. 

TIME REQUIRED FOR MAKING STOCK. 

When meat and bones are well cut and broken 
up, all their valuable qualities will by proper soak- 
ing and simmering be extracted in two or three 
hours; and although longer cooking will render the 
stock thicker and more gelatinous, it is not advis- 



sours. 15 

able to continue it a greater length of time, as the 
nutrition of soup depends very little, if at all, up- 
on the amount of gelatine it contains, and its flavor 
is injured by too much cooking. 

STRAINING, COOLING- AND KEEPING STOCK. 

Stock, when sufficiently cooked, should be care- 
fully strained, and unless wanted for immediate 
use should be set where it will cool as rapidly as 
possible. The quicker it cools the finer will be its 
flavor, and the greater the length of time it can be 
kept. In cold weather stock w 7 ill keep fresh and 
sweet for several clays; but in summer, unless kept 
in a cold place, it will be necessary for its preserva- 
tion, to put it over the fire and bring it to a boil, 
or " scald it " every day. 

SALTING STOCK. 

After stock has been strained and while still 
warm, all the salt that will be needed in the soups 
or sauces to be prepared from it, can be added with 
advantage, as it becomes thoroughly incorporated 
with the stock and aids in its preservation. 

COOKING VEGETABLES IN STOCK. 

Many cook books recommend putting vegetables 
into the stock pot with the meat and cooking them 



13 COOKKRY MANUAL. 

the same length of time. But as vegetables that 
are cooked several hours with meat are apt to give 
the stock a rank taste, and also to cause it to fer- 
ment in a short time in warm weather, such a 
method is objectionable in making stock. Where 
economjr is a prominent consideration, or where 
the stock is to be used immediately in soup, it is 
perhaps as well to simmer the meat and vegetables 
together a sufficient length of time to extract all 
their flavor and nutriment. 



CLASSIFICATION OF SOUPS. 



After the stock has been properly made there is 
comparatively little trouble attending the prepar- 
ation of any kind of soup desired; and it may be 
proceeded with at once, by the addition of spices, 
vegetables and other articles, or may be postponed 
till another dav, and for another occasion. 

The variety of soups is illimitable and can be 
increased almost indefinitely, as it requires but a 



soups. 17 

new combination of materials to entitle a soup to 
a distinctive name, and as grotesque a one as its 
originator may choose to bestow upon it. 

All soups, however, can be classified and arranged 
under five heads, viz.: 

1. Plain soup. 

2. Clear soup. 

3. Vegetable soup. 

4. White soup. 

5. Mixed soup. 

To one or the other of these divisions every- 
thing in the nature of soup belongs; and a little 
intelligent thought will enable the cook to select 
the materials adapted to, and appropriate for use in 
each division. 

FLAVOR AND COLOR OF SOUP. 

The flavor of the solid material, either animal or 
vegetable from which a soup takes its name, should 
always predominate when the soup is served, and 
only such spices should be added in its prepara- 
tion as have a tendency to bring out, and per- 
fectly develop the flavor of the dominant article. 

This proposition holds good, and should be con- 
formed to also, in regard to the color; so far, at 
2 



18 COOKERY MANUAL. 

least, as to prohibit the introduction of dark col- 
ored vegetables, spices, ets., into light colored 
soups. 

REMOVING THE GREASE. 

Before using stock for soup, the first thing to be 
done is to remove from it all superfluous grease. 
When it is to be used without being permitted to 
cool, a little cold water poured .into it as soon as 
strained, will cause the grease to rise to the surface 
so it can be skimmed off without difficulty. If it 
is set aside till cold, the grease will form in a cake 
on the top of the stock, and can be taken off when 
convenient, but, as it excludes the air, it is better 
to let it remain till the stock is needed. 



CLASS ONE. 

PLAIN SOUPS. 

Plain soup, in its strictest sense, is either simple 
or compound stock seasoned with salt, or with salt 
and pepper. The addition of some of the grains or 
grain products, generally improves the flavor and 
increases the nutritive value of any simple soup or 



soups. 1 9 

broth, but does not take it out of the category of 
plain soup. 

Prominent among, and strikingly illustrative of 
this class of soups, is 

PLAIN CHICKEN SOUP. 

The flesh of the fowl from which the stock is to be 
made, should, with the exception of the breast, be 
cut into small pieces, and the bones broken. The 
breast, with the skin as perfect as possible, should 
be placed in the pot whole, on top of the prepared 
material, and removed as soon as tender. To each 
quart of stock, when strained and skimmed, add an 
ounce of rice, and let simmer three-quarters of an 
hour, then add the breast of the chicken, cut in 
dice, a little minced parsley, and salt and pepper 
to taste. Plain chicken soup is much improved if 
about a pound of round steak be cut up and cooked 
with the fowl. 

To this soup add a pint of sweet cream, thicken 
with flour, and flavor highly with celery, and the 
product will be a much admired white soup — 
cream of celery soup; — or if the celery and cream 
be omitted, the addition of half a teaspoonful of 
curry powder will transform it into a choice Mul- 
ligatawny soup. 



20 COOKERY MANUAL. . 

CLASS TWO. 

CLEAR SOUPS. 

Clear soup is made from simple or compound 
stock, by straining and clarifying. It can be sea- 
soned with salt, pepper and other condiments, or 
with salt and pepper alone. In the preparation of 
clear soups, herbs, spices and vegetables are fre- 
quently cooked with the stock, and strained out, 
and the soup then clarified. All soups that are 
made with a foundation of clarified stock, or that 
have clear soup for a base, can be thickened with 
arrow root, corn starch and similar articles, or 
flavored with various vegetables, cereals, etc., with- 
out losing their distinctive name or character, pro- 
vided care be taken to use only such articles as will 
not injure the clearness of the soup. As excellent 
illustrations of this class of soups take — 

JSTo. 1. — AMBER SOUP. 

Put a gill each of sliced onion, carrot, turnip 
and parsnip, fried to a delicate brown, together 
with the bits of ham or bacon with which they 
were fried, into a soup kettle; add to them a sprig 
each of parsley and thyme, half a bay leaf, two 



sours. 21 

cloves, five pepper corns, and cover with five quarts 
of plain or compound stock. Simmer gently for 
an hour, strain, remove the grease, and clarify. 
Heat to boiling point, season with salt and pepper, 
add a tablespoonful of caramel and serve. If prop- 
erly made, and carefully strained and clarified, this 
soup will be as transparent as amber. 

JSfo. 2. — TOMATO SOUP. 

To four quarts of clear soup, add a quart of 
strained stewed tomato, a teaspoonful of sugar, a 
tablespoonful each of corn starch and butter stirred 
together, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil a few 
minutes and serve. 

JVo. 3. — JULIENNE SOUP. 

To four quarts of clear soup, add a gill each of 
carrot, parsnip, turnip, celery, string beans, core of 
lettuce, and a small onion, cut into thin pieces 
about an inch in length, and simmer gently until 
all the vegetables are tender. Season to taste with 
salt and pepper, and ten or fifteen minutes before 
serving the soup, put into it a few water cresses or 
some sorrel leaves. If all the vegetables are not 
readily obtainable, one or more of them can be 
omitted without serious detriment to either the 
flavor or title of the soup. 



22 COOKERY MANUAL. 

CLASS THREE. 

VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

Vegetable soup is made by cooking vegetables in 
either simple or compound stock; or a special stock 
may be prepared by adding water or milk to the 
juice extracted from vegetables. A vegetable soup 
may contain but a single vegetable; or it may con- 
tain a variety of vegetables, and be of any color de- 
sired. The vegetables may be cooked a longer or 
shorter time, and left in, or strained out of the 
soup according to taste or fancy. 

No. 1. PLAIN VEGETABLE SOUP. 

To three quarts of stock add a gill each of sliced 
carrot, turnip, parsnip and onion, and simmer gent- 
ly till tender. Half an hour before serving, add 
a stalk of celery cut in small pieces, or two or three 
sprigs of parsley. Season with salt and pepper. 

A number of plain vegetable soups quite differ- 
ent in character can be very readily compounded 
by using a greater or smaller variety of vegetables, 
or by adapting the combination to the season and 
the appetite. 



sours. 23 

JVo. 2. ONION SOUP. 

Fry in an ounce of butter or clarified drippings, 
till a light brown, two or three large onions sliced 
thin; then add two ounces of flour and stir till 
about the same color. Mix thoroughly with a 
pint of cold stock, place over the fire in a soup 
kettle, and when it comes to a boil pour in a quart 
of boiling milk into which three boiled potatoes, 
mashed to a smooth paste have been stirred. Season 
with salt and pepper and serve hot. Water can be 
used instead of stock in this soup, if more conven- 
ient, and the soup still be delicious. 

JVo. 3, — DRIED PEA SOUP. 

Soak for several hours, or over night, a pint of 
dried peas in two quarts of cold water. Drain and 
put to cook in four quarts of cold water, with a 
quarter of a pound of breakfast bacon or salt pork, 
fried to a light brown. As soon as the water boils 
skim carefully, cover closely and let simmer gently 
three or four hours, or until the peas are very ten- 
der. Strain and return the soup to the kettle, add 
a teaspoonful of sugar, two quarts of stock, and, 
when boiling, a tablespoonful each of flour and 
butter. Season with salt and pepper, and serve 
with toasted bread cut in dice. 



24 COOKERY MANUAL. 

Pea soup can be made in this manner without 
the bacon or pork, In which case it is advisable to 
use a cup of sweet cream instead of the butter, and 
to season delicately with celery. Sweet corn is a 
very desirable mixture for pea soup, and sugar 
may be dispensed with when it is used. The addi- 
tion of a little crushed spinach juiqe will convert 
this into a nice green pea soup. 

If the spinach juice be omitted, and a cup of dark 
rich gravy, a spoonful of caramel, and a flavoring 
of herbs and spices be substituted, the entire char- 
acter of the soup will be so changed that it must 
be transferred to the list of mixed soups. 



CLASS FOUK. 

WHITE SOUPS. 

Veal, chicken, fish, oysters and other shell fish 
furnish the stock for most white soups, and cream 
or milk enters largely into the composition of 
many of them. One of the leading characteristics 
of white soups is the prohibition of everything 
that has a tendency to color; hence, comparatively 



soups. 25 

few vegetables, herbs and spices are legitimately 
permissible in their composition as seasoning and 
flavoring. With certain restrictions, however, a 
greater number can occasionally be introduced 
with appropriateness, and sometimes be given even 
a prominent place. 

An illustration is furnished in 

JSTo. 1. — CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP. 

Cut oft', about an inch in length, the points of 
two bunches of asparagus, and simmer them gently 
until tender in water sufficient to cover them, to 
which a teaspoonful of salt has been added. Boil 
the stalks of the asparagus twenty minutes in three 
pints of white stock or water, then strain and 
thicken the liquid with a tablespoonful of flour, let 
it boil two minutes, and add a pint of sweet cream 
and the asparagus points with the water in which 
-they were cooked. Season with salt and pepper. 
*nd serve hot. 

No. 2. — CORN SOUP. 

A delicious white soup can be made by simmer- 
ing a pint of sweet corn in a quart of white stock 
for fifteen minutes, then adding a quart of boiling 
milk and a small piece of butter, and seasoning 
with salt and pepper. 



26 COOKERY MANUAL. 

No. 3. — A RICH WHITE SOUP. 

Simmer for an hoar in three quarts of white 
stock a gill each of white turnip, onion and celery 
cut in small pieces, together with a blade of mace. 
Strain, thicken with two ounces of flour, boil two 
minutes, add half a pint of sweet cream and sea- 
son with salt and pepper. "When about to boil stir 
in the well beaten yolks of three eggs, and serve. 



CLASS FIVE. 

MIXED SOUPS. 

Delicacy in seasoning and flavoring is pre-emi- 
nently the distinguishing mark of a fine soup of 
any kind; but to mix, mingle and combine many 
different articles of food so as to produce a soup 
whose flavor is distinct from any single ingredient 
entering into its composition, yet embodying tin. 
best qualities of each, is the true criterion of meri$ 
in a mixed soup. 

Nearly all soups are in a certain sense mixed 
soups; but plain, clear, vegetable and white soups. 



soups. 27 

have distinctive cliaracteri sties by which they can 
be recognized, and their genuineness established, 
while the individuality of a mixed soup must be 
evolved from the harmonious adjustment of seem- 
ingly discordant materials, and depends in a great 
measure upon the good judgment, discriminating 
taste and artistic skill of the person who prepares 
it. 

An illustration of a mixed soup that can not be 
placed under any other division is 

No . 1. MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 

Ingredients: 

A calPs head, a beef soup bone, five quarts cold 
water, one onion, one turnip, one carrot, one half 
stalk celery, one half bunch parsley, one bay leaf, 
one lemon, five cloves, ten allspice, ten pepper 
corns, one fourth nutmeg, two teaspoons of salt, a 
little cayenne pepper, two ounces butter, one ounce 
flour — a glass of wine to each quart of soup. 

Put the head after removing the brains with the 

spices in the soup kettle, and cover with three 

quarts of cold water to which half a teaspoonful of 

salt has been added. ; 

, When it boils skim carefully and let simmer 



28 COOKERY MANUAL. 

four or five hours, removing the meat as soon as 
tender. Strain and set aside till next day. Put 
the beef bone and vegetables in the soup kettle and 
cover with two quarts of cold water to which half 
a teaspoonful of salt has been added, and simmer 
four hours, removing the scum as it rises. Soak 
the brains in cold salt water an hour, tie in a lin- 
en cloth and boil gently twenty minutes in salted 
water. Plunge an instant in cold water to render 
white and firm. Cook two ounces butter and one 
ounce of flour in a sauce pan till very brown. Put 
both soup stocks together in the kettle, after all 
grease and settlings have been removed, also the 
meat from the head cut in small dice, and the 
yolks of a dozen hard boiled eggs, and w T hen it 
boils add the brains cut in small pieces. Put the 
lemon, cut in thin slices, in a heated tureen, with 
a gill of wine for each quart of soup; pour the 
boiling soup on them, and serve. 

l¥o. 2. — SAVE-ALL SOUP. 

Collect the scraps left from breakfast and dinner, 
for instance, a half pint of soup, a gill of gravy, a 
half pint'of mashed turnip or potato, a little mac- 
aroni cooked with cheese, a sour baked apple or 



soups. 29 

broiled chop or steak, etc., etc.; put them in the 
stock pot or soup kettle with sufficient cold water, 
simmer for an hour, removing any scum that rises, 
then strain and set aside. Next dav remove the 
grease, put the soup to cook, and when it boils, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and if it seems to need 
other seasoning add a pinch of thyme, or celery 
seed, or a teaspoonful of sugar. It is sometimes 
well to put half a bay leaf and two or three cloves 
in the kettle with the scraps. The flavorings and 
spices required in a mixed soup of this description 
depend greatly upon the nature of the scraps used. 
If they are mostly light and delicate, thyme, mace 
celery, or parsley can be added; if dark and heavy, 
cloves, bay leaf, sweet marjoram or a little Worces- 
tershire sauce, or walnut or other catsup can be 
used more appropriately. Sometimes an ounce 
each of butter and flour cooked together in a sauce- 
pan till browned, and then added to the soup, give 
it the very thing it lacks; or it may be that the 
flour stirred with a gill of cold sweet cream is what 
is needed to make it a perfect soup. 

To select and harmonize the materials for a 
mixed soup is one of the best evidences of culinary 
capacity; and the cook who can do this success- 



30 COOKERY MANUAL. 

fully, is qualified to prepare a soup of the most 
complex as well as one of the simplest character, 
without regard to its name or class. 

OYSTER SOUPS. 

These all belong to the white soup class, but 
they occupy so anomalous a position — an oyster 
soup being simply an oyster stew with additional 
liquid, and a thickening of flour — that they deserve 
special mention. 

TO STEW OYSTERS. — No. 1. 

Rinse a quart of oysters in cold water, drain 
through a sieve. Put a piece of butter the size of 
an egg in a stew pan," and when melted add a pint 
of milk and let it come to a boil; add the oysters, 
and the moment the edges curl remove from the 
fire; season with salt and pepper. Serve with 
small crackers^ or on thin slices of buttered toast. 

TO STEW OYSTERS. JVo. 3. 

Pour a pint of cold water over a quart of oysters, 
stir well and drain; put the liquor in a stew pan 
greased with butter; when it boils, skim, add the 
oysters, season to taste with butter, salt and pep- 
per, and cook and serve as in No. 1. 



soups. 31 

In changing an oyster stew to a soup, the thick- 
ening and extra liquid should be added and cooked 
before the oysters are put into it. 

POTAGES, PUREES AND CONSOMMES. 

These are French terms used to designate differ- 
ent kinds of soups; but they are applied so indis- 
criminately as to possess very little significance, 
even for culinary adepts; and the dividing line be- 
tween a potage, a puree, a consomme, and an or- 
dinary soup, is so imaginary as to be indistinct to 
plain every-day people. But as a foreign or gro- 
tesque name does not detract from the quality of a 
good thing, those who prefer to call a soup a potage 
a puree or a consomme, can do so with impunity, 
and not legally infringe on the domain of any pro- 
fessional cook. 

HOW TO SCALD SOUP. 

To scald stock or soup properly, it must be 
brought to the boiling point and thoroughly heated. 
Its liability to ferment and grow sour is only in- 
creased by merely re- warming it. 

WHEN TO ADD FLAVORING. 

Vegetables when used merely to flavor soups 
should be simmered only long enough to extract 



32 COOKERY MANCTAL. 

their juices; and aromatic spices, orange and lem- 
on juice, and other liquid flavorings whose subtle 
essences are driven off by heat, should be added 
barely a sufficient length of time before the soup is 
served, for them to blend and harmonize with the 
other materials — -in fact it is usually better to put 
them in the tureen and pour the soup over them 
just before it goes to the table. 

ORDER OF ADDING VEGETABLES. 

Where several kinds of vegetables are used in the 
preparation of a soup, care should be taken to put 
those that require most cooking in the kettle first; 
and, if possible, to limit the simmering of each kind 
to the time actually necessary to cook it tender. 

BROWNING VEGETABLES. 

Breakfast bacon and ham give a peculiarly fine 
flavor to many soups, and when they are used the 
vegetables added to such soups should be browned 
in the fryings of the meat; but when neither bacon 
nor ham is used, the vegetables should be browned 
in butter, as in most cases they impart a richer 
flavor to the soup, if nicely browned in a little 
grease before being added. 



soups. 33 

vegetables, etc., adapted to soups. 
While nearly all kinds of vegetables, herbs, 
spices and cereals can be appropriately used at 
pleasure in clear, vegetable and mixed soups, those 
spesially adapted to white soups are: cauliflower, 
potato, white turnip, onion, celery, salsify, cresses, 
capers, olives, parsley, thyme, rice, macaroni, ver- 
micelli, tapioca, sago, mace, and red and white 
pepper. 

TO CLARIFY SOUPS. 

To each gallon of soup add, while cold, the 
whites and shells of two eggs beaten with a little 
cold water, simmer for fifteen minutes, removing 
the scum as it rises, and then strain through a 
flannel cloth or bag. 

CARAMEL. 

Preparations for coloring and flavoring soups 
can be obtained at almost any grocery by those 
who wish to use them. But caramel, which is in- 
nocent and cheap, is one of the best coloring mate- 
rials, and is easily prepared: — 

Stir half a pound of sugar and a spoonful of 
water in a saucepan over the fire till a bright 

3 - 



34 COOKERY MANUAL. 

brown, then add half a pint of water, boil a few 
minutes and strain. Caramel made in this man- 
ner will keep a considerable length of time if put 
in an air-tight jar or bottle. 

THICKENING FOE SOUPS. 

When flour, corn starch, farina or arrow root are to 
be used as thickening for soups they should be stirred 
to a smooth paste with cold milk, cream, or butter, 
and then added to the boiling soup. If the flour is 
desired brown it should be cooked with butter be- 
fore it is added to the soup. 

ADDITIONS TO SOUPS. 

Eggs cooked in a variety of ways, croutons, 
noodles, dumplings, force meat balls, and a dozen 
other articles that are manufactured for the pur- 
pose, are used according to fancy as additions to 
soups. Some of them are cooked in the soup and 
served with it, and some are cooked separate and 
put in the tureen or the individual plates, and the 
soup poured over them. 

CROUTONS. 

A bit of toasted or fried bread is called in 
French a crouton ; and croutons, which are simply 



soups. 35 

bits of bread toasted or fried brown, are very nice 
in a variety of soups. The bread can be toasted in 
the ordinary way and used dry, or it can be buttered, 
cut in dice and toasted brown in the oven, or fried 
brown in butter or drippings. The best way of 
serving croutons is to put a spoonful of them in 
each plate and pour the hot soup over them. 

NOODLES. 

The noodle is one of the traditional articles for 
serving in soups. It is a general favorite and is 
easily made: 

To three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of water, and 
a pinch of salt, add flour enough to make a stiff 
dough. Work and knead fifteen or twenty minutes, 
roll to a very thin sheet, dust lightly and evenly 
with flour, and roll up compactly. Then with a 
thin sharp bladed knife cut into very thin slices 
and let dry for a couple of hours before putting in 
the soup. They will cook in five minutes. Or, 

Beat an egg very light, add flour until stiff enough 
to roll into little crumbs the size of wheat or rice 
grains, drop into boiling soup and cook a few min- 
utes. 

DUMPLINGS. 

A very delicate dumpling for soup can be made 



36 COOKERY MANUAL. 

of biscuit dough, raised with either yeast or bak- 
ing powder, in this manner: roll the dough thv>, 
cut into dice, roll under the hand on a floured board, 
and steam for twenty minutes; put in the tureen 
and pour boiling soup over them. 

But the most delicate of dumplings are made 
of light bread crumbs, suet or marrow, egg and 
seasoning. These can be varied in seasoning to 
suit any soup. This is a good combination for a 
clear, white or delicate soup of any kind. Mix 
well, but lightly, a tablespoonful uncooked beef 
marrow and half a pint bread crumbs, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, grated lemon peel and mace; 
add one well beaten egg, roll into balls in the 
hands, and drop into the boiling soup. They 
should be served as soon as they rise to the sur- 
face. 

FORCE MEAT BALLS. 

To four parts cooked veal, and one part suet 
minced together, add four parts bread crumbs and 
season with salt, pepper, powdered cloves and sweet 
herbs. Bind together with beaten egg y make in- 
to small balls and fry brown. These are much 
used in mock turtle and other heavy soups. 



SOUP AND SOUP MAKING QUESTIONS. 



1. — What is a stock pot? 

2. — How should it be used and how frequently? 

3. — What is soup stock? 

4. — How many kinds of stock are there? 

5. — What is simple stock? 

6. — What is compound stock? 

7. — How is stock made? 

8. — Why should the water for making stock be 
salted? 

9. — How much salt should be used? 

10. — Why should the scum that rises be re- 
moved? 

11. — Why should meat for making stock be put 
to cook in cold water? 

12. — Why should meat for soup be simmered 
rather than boiled? 

13. — What should be the quality of the meat for 
making stock or soup? 

(37) 



38 COOKERY MANUAL. 

14. — What is beef tea and how is it made? 

15. — Upon what does the consistency of stock de- 
pend? 

16. — What length of time should stock be sim- 
mered? 

17. — When sufficiently cooked how should it be 
treated? 

18. — How long will stock keep? 

19. — Should vegetables be cooked with meat in 
making stock? Why not? 

20. — How many classes of soups are there? 

21.— What are they? 

22.— What flavors should predominate in soup? 

23. — What kinds of spices should be added to 
soup? 

24. — Does the same rule that governs the flavor 
hold good in regard to the color of soups? 

25. — When and how should the grease be re- 
moved from soup? 

26. — What is plain soup? 

27. — What effect on a plain soup has the addi- 
tion of grain or grain products? 

28. — How is plain chicken soup made? 

29. — How is cream of celery soup made? 

30. — How can a plain chicken soup be changed 
to a mulligatawny soup? 



soups. 39 

31. — How is clear soup made? 

32. — How is amber soup made? 

33. — How is tomato soup made? 

34. — How is julienne soup made? 

35. — How are vegetable soups made? 

36. — How is a plain vegetable soup made? 

37. — How is onion soup made? 

38. — How is dried pea soup made? 

39. — How is green pea soup made? 

40. — When does a pea soup become a mixed 



41. — From what is stock for white soups ob- 
tained? 

42. — What is a leading characteristic of white 
soups? 

43. — How is cream of asparagus soup made? 

44. — How is corn soup made? 

45. — Give a recipe for a rich white soup? 

46. — Upon what does the individuality of a 
mixed soup depend? 

47. — Ho wis mock turtle soup made? 

48. — How can a good save-all soup be made? 

49. — How does an oyster soup differ from an 
oyster stew? 

50. — How are oysters stewed? 



40 COOKERY MANUAL. 

51. — What are potages, purees and consommes? 

52. — What is the distinction between them and 
ordinary soups? 

53. — How should soup or stock be scalded? 

54, — When is the proper time for adding flavor- 
ings and spices to soups? 

55. — How should vegetables be added? 

56. — How should vegetables for soups be brown- 
ed? 

57.— What different vegetables, herbs and spices 
are adapted to different soups? 

58. — How are soups clarified? 

59. — What is caramel, and how is it made? 

60. — How should thickening for soups be pre- 
pared and used? 

61. — What are some of the additions to soup? 

62. — What are croutons and how are they made 
and served? 

63. — How are noodles made? 

64. — How are dumplings made? 

65. — How are force meat balls made? 



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